Maximum Motorsports Adjustable Rear Swaybar

Maximum Motorsports’ revolutionary new adjustable rear swaybar for Mustangs is far superior to anything else you’ve ever seen. When your goal is ultimate handling, you need the ability to fine tune the balance of your car. Neither the Mustang’s stock rear swaybar nor any other aftermarket swaybar gives you the tuning capabilities that you’ll have with the MM Adjustable Rear Swaybar.

Maximum Motorsports offers multiple rear swaybar sizes to ensure that you will have a swaybar rate to suit your needs. See the chart for a comparison of stock swaybars to the range of adjustment of the MM Swaybars.

Maximum Motorsports’ rear swaybar is more effective than the stock swaybar because of the way it attaches to the axle and chassis. The stock swaybar mounts to the lower control arms and has its effectiveness reduced by having to act through the control arm bushings. The MM swaybar mounts to the axle and acts directly on the chassis through end-links made of spherical rod-ends. Because of the mounting method, and the shorter length of the bar, a smaller-diameter bar provides a wheel rate similar to a stock swaybar (see chart). Wheel rate refers to the rate of roll stiffness of the swaybar as measured at the wheel. Adjustments in swaybar rate can be made by changing the position of the end links on the arm of the swaybar. Moving the end links towards the bar effectively shortens the swaybar arm, increasing the swaybar rate.

3/4” X .095” Wall Tubular Swaybar This bar provides a match to the stock 79-93 Mustang swaybar when set on full stiff. In the full soft position, it is about 40% softer than the stock early Mustang bar. This softer bar is recommended for people with other companies’ rear control arms, which may be causing binding and unwanted rear roll stiffness. This bar is also recommended for people with our control arms, (or stock control arms), who want increased rear traction coming out of corners in autocross or road race situations.

3/4” X .120” Wall Tubular Swaybar This bar will adjust to slightly softer than the stock 79-93 Mustang swaybar when set on full soft. From this point the rate can be increased by 40%, almost matching the 94-95 GT bar. This bar is recommended when oversteer or wheel spin are not a problem, and you want increased control over body roll in a neutral-handling car.

3/4” Solid Swaybar In the middle of its adjustment range, this bar matches the 1994 and newer Cobra bar. This bar will adjust to slightly softer than the 1994 and newer GT bar. The bar will then stiffen about 25% over the GT bar and about 20% above the Cobra bar. This bar is recommended for cars when oversteer and wheelspin are not a problem, and for drivers who wish to tune out an understeer problem in the car. This bar is recommended only with stock lower control arms or MM's lower control arms. With this bar, stock upper arms should be used, or a three link or torque-arm suspension.

7/8” X .120” Wall Tubular Swaybar At the soft end of its adjustment range this bar matches the 1994 and newer Cobra bar. The soft range of this bar overlaps the stiff range of the 3/4” solid bar. This bar is recommended for three link or Torque-arm suspensions when oversteer and wheelspin are not a problem, and you want increased control over body roll in a neutral handling car. Stock control arms, MM control arms, or double-rod-end type control arms are recommended.

7/8” X .188” Wall Tubular Swaybar The soft range of this bar overlaps the stiff range of the 7/8"X .120" wall swaybar.This bar is recommended for three link or Torque-arm suspensions where oversteer and wheelspin are not a problem, and for drivers who wish to tune out an understeer problem in the car. MM control arms, or double-rod-end type control arms are recommended.

Bolt-in vs. Weld-in Kits MM offer two basic types of kits, bolt-in or weld-in. The chassis mount brackets of the bolt-in kits are attached to holes that you must drill into the rear subframe of the car, near the rear springs. On 1996 and newer cars the access to drill the holes is restricted by a change in the rear unibody structure—it may require the use of a right-angle drill motor and short drill bits. Even on the pre 1996 cars installation is much quicker if you weld the chassis mount brackets in place, rather than drill the holes for bolting them in. The weld-in kits have slightly different, and lighter, brackets, and do not come with the hardware for a bolt-in installation. The rest of the two kits are identical.

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